Two years ago, with a week off for National Day holiday approaching, I decided to do some traveling in China. I had already been to many of the major cities and areas around the country, and knowing how busy it is to travel around these holiday weeks, was aware that the main tourist areas would be flooded with people. Flights and trains to main areas are also difficult and expensive during this time. So after some research, I found a Chinese connection (who would later become a good friend) that could be my guide to take me to a place far away from the hustle of Beijing; a small village in Hebei province called Zhailicun (债李村).
Fortunately, I was able to stay with a family for a relatively small amount of money. After taking a train to the interesting but under-developed Hebei capital of Shijiazhuang (石家庄), my guide took me by a rickety and very crowded bus out to the town. Developed roads turned into dirt paths as we made it into the village near nightfall. There I met my new family for the next six days (my guide would be there for the first two before returning to Beijing), and we ate dinner before going to bed.
The next few days were very interesting, albeit not so busy. I spent a large portion of my time exploring the area and understanding what village life was like. Things were far different than what I was used to in Beijing. There was neither warm running water nor a bathroom (just a covered area with a hole in the ground), and few people had computers. The siheyuan (四合院) where my family lived was rather interesting. In addition to having multiple small rooms connected by a courtyard, the main building had a ladder up to a roof, covered with corn and peanuts out to dry in the sun. The sunsets were beautiful, and the moon and stars were far brighter than anywhere else I had ever seen in China.
Each day, I ended up doing something a bit different. One day, I was taken out to a mountain region nearby. Another, I visited a factory that made disposable latex gloves, and it was much cleaner and nicer than I had anticipated. On one day, we went to a large, nearby temple. In another afternoon, I even helped the villagers farming corn in the fields for a little bit. These experiences were all very fascinating, but my interactions with the people were even more so. My host family cooked for me each day, and although the food was a bit salty and different than my usual tastes, it was good and always freshly made. I even played Chinese card games with other young people who had returned to the village from their universities for the holiday.
Of course, there were difficulties during my visit. Besides the lack of modern technology and accommodations, another challenging part was communicating with my family and other locals, as the dialect spoken in the area varies pretty strongly from the Mandarin I was used to. In addition, the attention given to me was sometimes bothersome; to many in the village (especially children) I was perhaps the first foreigner they had ever seen in person. Overall, while it would be difficult to spend a very long time in this kind of situation, for a few days it was a nice and refreshing change from life in Beijing.
The experience was definitely one of the most eye-opening and memorable so far during my time in China, and I still remember it clearly and warmly. So to all foreigners living in China: my recommendation is to do something different during the long Chinese holidays while you have the time off. Don’t just hang out at your Beijing or Shanghai bar street; they will be there when you get back. Though visiting another modern Chinese or Asian city can certainly be interesting too, it will not give you the truest cultural feel of the country. If you get outside your comfort zone, into a new, different area, you will certainly find frustrations on the way, but will surely be rewarded in the end in more aspects than you realize.