“Oh don’t worry, ever since the Olympics everyone there speaks a little English.”
There are all sorts of pervasive myths about China in the West.* Some are true (“OMG!! They eat puppies!!!”), some are not (“OMG!! They eat cockroaches!!!”) but none were as damagingly untrue in getting me prepared as that little golden nugget of common wisdom. No, not everyone in China speaks “a little English.” They do study it for years, but as many of my American friends that have been studying Spanish for the past 8 years but struggle to say “hola” could probably tell you, that’s no guarantee of any sort of practical knowledge.
Sure, occasionally you will meet through friends someone that speaks amazingly well, and having never left the country will claim to have learned by watching “Friends,” which is amazing, or like my roommate, by watching Chris Rock comedy stand-up, which is just beyond the realm of my comprehension. But aside from that, and the foreign-educated, don’t expect anyone in the street to know more than the “HALLO?!” that they will scream at you in passing. (“OK-le 了” is also common for anyone trying to get you to agree to some sort of overpriced rickshaw ride. Beware of OK-le). I have even met people going to college in the States who can neither understand me nor construct an intelligible sentence.
In fact, most Chinese people, even in a very international city like Beijing, have had very little contact with foreigners. The good news about that is that, most of the time, you can expect a degree of patience for your desperate sign language and baby Chinese that’s just not plausible in any other major city in the world. The bad news is that you will occasionally run into people that get so nervous at the sight of your big nose and weird-colored hair that they will just completely shut down. That’s where the “Boo arm wave” comes in.
You ask a question in your best Chinese. They look up. They see you, and regardless of the quality of your tones, they decide that looking that way you can’t possibly speak a word of Mandarin. Their arm flies in front of their torso, with their extended palm facing you, rapidly swinging their elbow from side to side. “Boo boo boo boo boo!” You try again. They refuse to make eye contact. If you need any information from them, you might as well start looking for someone else to ask. If you need to buy something, they will simply not acknowledge the fact that you asked “多少钱?” repeatedly, in their language, and thus presumably also know how to count, and instead they’ll type it on a calculator and push it your way. Ego: crushed.
But don’t despair! Don’t let your would-be-Chinese-speaking spirit get down! If you want to find someone that will insist on having a one hour long conversation with you even if you cannot understand a word they’re saying, just grab your homework, a really good book, or something else that makes you look incredibly busy and not available to talk and head to a park. You’ll have company within 10 minutes, and they might grab your book from your hand, flipping slowly from page to page, giggling at the words you’re trying to learn. It works every time, especially when you don’t want it to.
*I am Colombian by birth and passport, but lived in the US through high school and college, long enough to make me about equal parts American, at least in psyche and propensity to get offended (I bet at least a couple American readers got offended by that). Expect more on how China is seen differently in my two home countries in future posts.
"哎呀别担心,自从奥运会过后那边所有的人都会讲一些英语。"
在西方有很多个有关中国的迷信,有真也有假的。
那当然,偶尔会遇到一个说得特别顺的人,
("OK了"也是一个经常听到的句子。
其实大多数的中国人从来没见过外国人,
第一,先使用你最好的华语问你的问题。第二,
可是别绝望,别伤心。